What guitar do you play?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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I think you should think of these as two separate instruments and pursue them that way. One of the things that sets instruments apart is their timbre, or sonic characteristic - these two types of guitar indeed sound quite a bit different. Since the production of good tone is one of the most important aspects of playing any instrument, you have to keep in mind that producing great tone on an acoustic guitar is fundamentally different than producing tone on an electric guitar.
 
Yesterday I've installed Hot rails in neck position. I'm also using 250k pots - i will check the tone for two months because for now I like this warn, little dark tone which is almost les paul-ish. In January I will put JB. Jr in the middle.

I wanted a guitar which is a cross between Dave tone and Janick beat-up strat and I think that I achieved that.

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gustavowoltmann said:
I think you should think of these as two separate instruments and pursue them that way. One of the things that sets instruments apart is their timbre, or sonic characteristic - these two types of guitar indeed sound quite a bit different. Since the production of good tone is one of the most important aspects of playing any instrument, you have to keep in mind that producing great tone on an acoustic guitar is fundamentally different than producing tone on an electric guitar.
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This is probably a reply to my post about the Martin and Furch guitars. I did some extra reading on the web and found that this specific Martin model often needs repair after some time because of issues related to its build. I then dug into Taylor models and realised that the praised Taylor 114e is on a discount in one store and goes for 799€, just 24 euros more than the Furch. They don’t have it in stock right now, but as soon as it arrives, I will go try it and then make my final decision between the 114e and the Furch.
 
Saapanael said:
This is probably a reply to my post about the Martin and Furch guitars. I did some extra reading on the web and found that this specific Martin model often needs repair after some time because of issues related to its build. I then dug into Taylor models and realised that the praised Taylor 114e is on a discount in one store and goes for 799€, just 24 euros more than the Furch. They don’t have it in stock right now, but as soon as it arrives, I will go try it and then make my final decision between the 114e and the Furch.
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I have a 114ce. Great great guitar.
 
I can recommend one of these vintage yamaki made washburn d-60sw, if you can find one.

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The ones from the mid 70s until 1984 or so are said to compare favorably to martins in sound and quality, they were made in japan by yamaki at that time, they’re vintage by now and they shouldn‘t be too expensive. I‘ve got a d-62sw from 1978, with a smaller body („auditorium“), which is good, but I remember a 60sw, which was the best dreadnought ever imo.
 
you know the Fender Telecaster was a hit of an instrument that drew in many an aficionado and many a great guitarist made it their instrument of choice.
 
US Dave Murray Stratocaster (2011).
Mexico Dave Murray Stratocaster (2015).
American Deluxe Stratocaster HSS (2007).
Fender Standard Stratocaster (2007).
Jackson RR5 (2009).
Charvel So-Cal (2010).
Charvel San Dimas (2014).
Gibson Les Paul Traditional (2014).
Schecter Hellraiser Casket (2013).
Esp Eclipse CTM (2009).
ESP LTD Kirk Hammett, Nosferatu (2016).
 
New guitar day! Furch Violet Master's Choice.

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I am curious if it just happened to me.

I've been listening to rock and metal all my life, so I knew more or less what equipment I should buy. It turned out that the sound did not suit me completely.

Fast forward a few months - it turns out that up to 99% of the music I play - from Judas Priest, Iron Maiden and Deep Purple to Eric Clapton, Eric Johnson and others, I play with Fender amplifiers (Reverb series) in combination with the mudhoney pedal (which I love and I use it whenever possible).

Only I feel best with equipment that I totally didn't take into account at first?
 
Got far too many guitars to even make a list, but I recently got a Marshall MG 15 watt practice amp, and for all the crap this amp gets all over the internet - it sounds fantastic! Have no clue what people are on about with this one, honestly. :cheers:
 
Is it safe to remove the neck of a bolt-on electric at home? I want to make a truss rod adjustment on my Jackson Adrian Smith SDX and the screw is located on the body-side end of the neck. The only way to access it is by removing the neck from the body. Are there any risks involved in doing this as a first-timer?
 
Saapanael said:
Is it safe to remove the neck of a bolt-on electric at home? I want to make a truss rod adjustment on my Jackson Adrian Smith SDX and the screw is located on the body-side end of the neck. The only way to access it is by removing the neck from the body. Are there any risks involved in doing this as a first-timer?
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Not really. Just use common sense, the right screwdriver so you don't strip the screws and look at a setup guide on Youtube first to get an idea of what you're doing.
 
Saapanael said:
Is it safe to remove the neck of a bolt-on electric at home? I want to make a truss rod adjustment on my Jackson Adrian Smith SDX and the screw is located on the body-side end of the neck. The only way to access it is by removing the neck from the body. Are there any risks involved in doing this as a first-timer?
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Nope. I do it once in a blue moon to perfectly clean the dust on the upper joint. Are you first time with the rod on Floyd Rose? I can give you some tips there on how to shorten the process.
 
Zare said:
Nope. I do it once in a blue moon to perfectly clean the dust on the upper joint. Are you first time with the rod on Floyd Rose? I can give you some tips there on how to shorten the process.
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Yes, I’ve never adjusted the rod before. I’m hoping I won’t have to take the strings off but simply release their tension, screw off the neck, adjust the truss rod and screw the neck back on.
 
On a FR guitar both the truss rod and the bridge spring are countering the string tension, together. So changing neck tension de-balances the floating bridge and you need to have things in tune to check the playability. So you're looking at the usual FR tuning pain in the ass stuff + the readjustment of springs because of the rod, all at once. It might take a two or three cycles to get there. Better approach is to split the job in half and block off the Floyd from moving.

A chip of wood that fits exactly between Floyd and the body and blocks the bridge in full neutral position - have this piece carved out by using measurements for a specific string set and tuning, it's really helpful to have around.

You should be able to take off the neck without removing the strings, lay the guitar down, grip on headstock and pull it slowly upwards and not away from the body. When adjusting rod, do small turns, like 1/8 of a circle at a time. When you're happy with the results, refloat the bridge and it should now be slightly offset from the level.

Also a bit maybe worth out writing here. If you have a good properly setup Floyd Rose, and you didn't change string tension but de-balanced the bridge by other means (such as rod) you should be able to retune your guitar by screwing or unscrewing the backplate that attaches the springs to the bridge, just take one small wind or unwind at both screws and repeat until you see the bridge back in level position.

What's your problem anyway, fret buzz?
 
Zare said:
On a FR guitar both the truss rod and the bridge spring are countering the string tension, together. So changing neck tension de-balances the floating bridge and you need to have things in tune to check the playability. So you're looking at the usual FR tuning pain in the ass stuff + the readjustment of springs because of the rod, all at once. It might take a two or three cycles to get there. Better approach is to split the job in half and block off the Floyd from moving.

A chip of wood that fits exactly between Floyd and the body and blocks the bridge in full neutral position - have this piece carved out by using measurements for a specific string set and tuning, it's really helpful to have around.

You should be able to take off the neck without removing the strings, lay the guitar down, grip on headstock and pull it slowly upwards and not away from the body. When adjusting rod, do small turns, like 1/8 of a circle at a time. When you're happy with the results, refloat the bridge and it should now be slightly offset from the level.

Also a bit maybe worth out writing here. If you have a good properly setup Floyd Rose, and you didn't change string tension but de-balanced the bridge by other means (such as rod) you should be able to retune your guitar by screwing or unscrewing the backplate that attaches the springs to the bridge, just take one small wind or unwind at both screws and repeat until you see the bridge back in level position.

What's your problem anyway, fret buzz?
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Fret buzz, yes. I recently raised the action on my Jackson which helped with the buzz but the action became very high, which I thought I might alleviate with getting the neck more straight. It had a pretty visible upbow when looking down the neck, plus a repairman told me that the neck needs some adjusting two years ago, when I took my guitar to him to get the Floyd Rose system changed to a better one. Fret buzz is obviously less apparent when playing with distortion, but it became especially apparent when recording DI. It was just too much and got in the way of playing.
I got the neck off and back on successfully, by the way. I'm pretty sure it looks more straight now, and I can enjoy less buzz without having to raise the action ridiculously high.
 
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